Tuesday, September 26, 2006

Unedited verion of article on Japanese cuisine for BTW magazine

Japanese Cuisine - so misunderstood!

Go to that Japanese dinner without fear because, Sushi is not raw fish, Japanese cuisine is not all Sushi and you won’t leave a Japanese restaurant starved even if you are vegetarian!

Raw fish, elaborate, expensive… Japanese cuisine lives under a multitude of misconcetions. With precepts much like Indian cuisine; use of the freshest seasonal local produce, cooking methods that retain natural flavour and presentation that appeals to the eyes, palate, stomach and health, Japanese cuisine need not be shunned as too foreign, just better understood. A primary reason for Japanese cuisine being circumvented is it’s deep connection with seafood. But if the foundation and distinguishing factor of any cuisine is ingredients then being surrounded by the sea as Japan is, it is only natural that Japanese cuisine is seafood based. Underlining this is the fact that red meat was never a part of the Japanese diet and only came in at end of the nineteenth century. Go past the fish dishes however, and you will find that a large number of traditional Japanese dishes an be vegetarian.

In Japan, sushi is considered a luxury typically served only on special occasions. Traditional Japanese fare abounds with steamed, grilled, deep-fried, broiled, one-pot and one bowl dishes; Teriyaki, tempura, Kushiyaki, Donburi and Teppanyaki to name a few, but it would be rare for all of these to be eaten together at the same meal. Each of these are a style of cooking, by itself and would have dedicated restaurants serving just one kind of meal in Japan. For example Sushi-ya or Sushi restaurants would specialize in sushi, Soba-ya would specialize in soba and udon noodle dishes, Tempura-ya in tempura dishes and so forth. It is only because Japanese cuisine is at a nascent stage in India that we are fortunate to find everything under one roof at Japanese restaurants like Sakura, Wasabi or Origami. So order yourself a bowl of Edamame (boiled tender green soybean), green tea and a platter of Sushi and select your meal with a little help from us….

Sushi is the most misrepresented food in the world. “Sushi” refers to the vinegared rice that is the most important ingredient in this dish and not raw fish. Raw fish might be the most popular ingredients used to top or stuff Sushi but it is not the only one. There are many varieties of sushi vegetarians can enjoy including Nigiri-zushi in which toppings - including vegetarian options such as cucumber, asparagus and fried bean curd - are placed on a block of rice and Maki-sushi or “rolled sushi," in which rice and other ingredients are placed on a sheet of seaweed or Nori, rolled into a cylinder with the help of a bamboo mat and cut into smaller pieces. Futo Maki are larger rolls. Vegetarian offerings include rolls made with just vegetables such as cucumber, carrot, shitake mushrooms, avocado and asparagus, pickled vegetables such as Tukuan or Japanese daikon radish, Ume or Japanese plums, pickled cucumber and dried vegetables such as Kanpyou or dried gourd.

While Japanese restaurant menus in India might be course wise it would be unwise to dine on Japanese food by the course. The standard traditional Japanese meal, “Ichiju-sansai” meaning "one soup, three sides" consists of soup, rice, pickles and three dishes or accompaniments is meant to be eaten all together and served all at once - diners wait till all the dishes are assembled at the table - and then eat from their individual bowls of rice, adding soup, pickles and condiments to taste and alternating with morsels of accompaniments. These could be a selection of dishes that each employ a different cooking technique and could include raw Sashimi, grilled foods called Teriyaki, deep fried foods such as tempura and a host of simmered, steamed, vinegared and dressed (with sesame oil or paste) dishes made with meats, and seafood as well as with vegetables and Dofu or Tofu which is an important ingredient in Japanese cuisine.

Table settings follow the ichiju-sansai formula and are laid with five separate bowls and plates. Nearest to the diner are a bowl for rice on the left and another for soup on the right, behind which are three flat plates meant for the accompaniments. Chopsticks are at the very front near the diner, pointed ends facing left and supported by a chopstick holder. This allows diners to appreciate the philosophy behind Japanese dining where the act of eating isn't just about nourishment but begins with the eyes - which is why Japanese dishes are beautifully presented in attractive serving ware - and ends with the palate -it is also the endeavour that natural flavour and texture of the ingredients be preserved, flavours and textures within each dish harmonise and each dish in turn harmonise within the meal as well as with the surroundings, nature and the diner.

Rice is the primary staple of Japanese cuisine possibly due to the high yield it provides in the limited agricultural land available. Usually served boiled, accompanied by a Miso soup and accompaniments in a full meal, rolled into Sushi or topped with a simmered dish in a one bowl meal called Don which is short for a Donburi, rice also has another prominent use in Japan. It is used to make Sake or "Japanese rice wine" which plays the part as grape wine in the West. You could do without Sake but chances are once you taste Japanese food with a small cup of sake, you will never quite forget the combination… Served chilled or warmed, depending on the food it is drunk with, it has an alcohol content of about 16% and comes in a variety of flavours ranging from dry to sweet. Rice wine and vinegars are also popular for cooking, Sake is a popular choice of ingredient for savoury flavours in dishes while Mirin a sweet rice wine is important in Teriyaki's rich flavours.

Japanese cuisine is particular about it’s vegetable quotient. Commonly consumed vegetables include Nira (Chinese chives), Spinach, Cucumber, eggplant, gobo (burdock), Daikon radish, sweet potato, renkon (Lotus root), Takenoko (Bamboo shoot), Negi (Welsh onion), Fuki (butterbur), Moyashi (sprouted mung and soyabean), Kaiware (Radish), Konnyaku (a gelatin producing plant) Sansai (wild vegetables) and a variety of mushrooms including Shitake, Matsu take, Enokitake Shimeji and Eringi. Japanese food also incorporates a variety of Seaweed including Nori, Konbu, Wakame, Hijiki. Vegetabls and seaweed would be served in many ways. Su No Mono are vegetables and/or seaweed, dressed with rice vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, and salt and considered refreshers or palate cleansers after oily dishes. Goma Ae are vegetables dressed with a nutty-flavored sesame paste. Ni Mono are boiled vegetables, especially root vegetables such as carrots, potatoes, or daikon (a kind of radish) cooked with soy sauce, sake, and mirin. Tsukemono are pickled vegetables, usually accompanied with riceand are pretty versatile but at restaurants, they usually serve nukazuke or pickled rice bran, Umeboshi sour pickled plums, Takuan, a strongly flavored yellow pickled daikon and Shiozuke or vegetables pickled with salt.

Noodles, originating from China, are also an important part of Japanese cuisine, usually (but not always) as an alternative to a rice-based meal or in ramen-rice combination sets. There are two main traditional types, Soba, made from buckwheat flour, are thin and brown and served chilled with various toppings or in hot soy-dashi broth and Udon thick white wheat flour, noodles served with various toppings or in a hot soy-dashi broth. Fried versions of Soba and Udon are Yaki soba and Yaki udon. Other lesser known Noodle dishes include Champon which originated in Nagasaki as cheap food for students, Somen which are thin wheat noodles served cold, Okinawa soba which are thick wheat noodles, and Ramen - thin light yellow noodles served in hot broth with various toppings that have grown to b Japan‘s national dish. Noodles are usually served with a soy-flavoured broth and various vegetables and accompaniments.

Just like olive oil is essential to Italian cuisine it is impossible to make authentic Japanese food without Sho yu, Miso and Dashi. Sho yu is Japanese Soya sauce, Miso is a salty, thick, cholesterol free paste made of fermented soybean and is available from white, mild and slightly sweet to and strong salty spicy and dark brown. Besides flavouring Miso soup, it is also used for seasoning stir-fried vegetables sauces and dressings. Dashi is one of several simple stocks fundamental to Japanese cooking. These form the base for miso soup, Japanese noodle broths, and simmering liquids. Most common is a Dashi made by heating Kombu (edible kelp or seaweed) and dried fish in water and then straining the resultant liquid but a vegetarian Dashi is made with Kelp and dried shiitake mushrooms as well.

A handful of Japanese condiments are available to personalise flavours. Wasabi is the pale green powdered root of the Japanese horseradish plant is used to garnish Sushi and add pungency (like Mustard or Mooli but with far more impact) to homemade dressings or sauces. Karashi is mustard, hotter than it’s western counterpart and used as a garnish or added to dressings and sauces. Shichimi or Ichimi Togarashi are Japanese chili powders used for sprinkling over noodles, miso soup, and stir-fried vegetables. Ichimi means one taste and consists of only Japanese chili pepper while Shichimi means seven tastes, and contains seven spices that include chilli, black sesame seeds, poppy seeds and hemp seeds among others. Sesame seeds, sesame oil, Gomashio (sesame salt), Furikake, Walnuts, Peanuts, red pepper, ginger, shiso (a flavourful herb), sansho (Sichuan peppercorn), citrus peel, Mitsuba (a fresh herb) and Monosodium Glutamate are other ingredients used in cooking or as table condiments.

Japanese sweets are called wa-gashi in Japanese, and made of rice, sugar, and red azuki beans. Yokan are sweet azuki bean confections, made from azuki beans, sugar, and agar-agar, Manju are sweet buns made from wheat-or rice-flour, azuki bean, and sugar and the beautiful Higashi which are little dry confectionery, served at the famed Japanese tea ceremony made from rice flour and sugar, tese are often colored and molded into natural figures such as a leaves or flowers. Wa-gashi can be very sweet and go well with bitter green tea.

First came “Indian” Chinese, then Italian and Thai and as India is poised to enter what seems to be a culinary revolution, Japanese cuisine seems to be the new flavour on the menu. The Sakura restaurant at the Metropolitan hotel Nikko New Delhi was the first Japanese restaurant in India but rather upscale. Recent times have seen an increase in the availability of Japanese food with the opening of Wasabi by Morimoto at the Taj Mahal Hotel, and Sushi appearing on the menus of the Pan Asian at the Maratha Sheraton, Spices at the J W Marriott, Tiffin at the Oberoi, Spices at the J.W.Marriott and Japengo at CR2, Seijo and the Soul Dish but with the opening of India’s first stand alone Japanese Origami at Atria mall shows that Japanese is here to stay.


This article first appeared in ME magazine on 31 dec 2006
The content on this blog is copyright of A Perfect Bite and may not be used anywhere without express permission of the author.

Buri Nazar Wale - TERA MU KALA!!

Sunday, September 24, 2006

A Green World - Article on Isha Anand for mE magazine 24 Sept

Isha Anand is just one of the many people trying to make the world a greener place. Peacefully


Once upon a time, there was a girl. Like most people of her ilk that do not fit a precise mould, she was labelled many things.

After years of a bohemian lifestyle, she stunned everyone by opting for an interesting career. Isha Anand found her calling as a cook with Greenpeace. While the rest of the world plans to do something to save the world, she actually goes out and does it!

In 2004, Greenpeace’s flagship, the Rainbow Warrior, visited the tropical forests of Indonesia, Malaysia, Papua New Guinea and the nearby archipelagos to document what is being lost, support the people working to protect it, and hold accountable those responsible for the destruction. The crew page of the web log has her introduction, where she mentions, “I hope I can make a difference, somehow!”

She certainly gave it her best. By January 28 that year, Isha was immersed in the hard work it takes to save the world. On the web log, she talks about working hard in sauna-like conditions in the ship’s hold on a rainy day. By the end of that voyage, the better part of which she spent cooking because the cook was ill, Isha had found her calling. She returned to Mumbai to sort out some paperwork. In June 2005, she was back on ship. This time as a cook, sailing into the Arctic with the thin ice project, to fight global warming.

Her shipmate Melanie remarks on the voyage’s web log: “This is Isha’s first time above the Arctic Circle, in sea ice, and seeing whales and seals. She is positively awestruck and describes feeling ‘numb with delight’. That kind of excitement doesn’t wane… I feel the same kind of excitement and awe that she does.” Isha underlines that she is a cook and not a chef “purely to avoid getting beaten up by other chefs who are trained professionals, egoistical and fussy… I learnt to cook watching the women in my family and my uncle. For them, it was a party in the
kitchen and the philosophy was love, a magic ingredient! Cooking is a way to share love. That’s my basis as well.”

Isha eloquently articulates her feelings when asked what it feels like to be so far north on the planet. “Being an Indian, it’s hard to explain but I will try. Home is the tropics, and the North was always the Himalayas. The roof of the world was Tibet. What a tiny picture of the world, eh? One e-mail and it is split wide open. An offer to travel to Greenland with the Arctic Sunrise, I would never see the world in the same way again. How can you?

“How can anyone who has seen life above the Arctic Circle? Heavenly it is, white clouds blanket you and blue skies peek through, promising a boundless outer world even higher… “I had heard of global warming and climate change. They sounded like a real threat, but never did I REALISE it… It’s been dawning on me…

Looking out here is like looking into our past. “I see it now. Ice is life. It gives life little by little, and no one understands it better than the people who have lived here for thousands of years… It’s a hard life but it’s also free… “We must protect our home, it is the only one we have, without
bombarding it with things we create because, honestly, we might be mighty but not mightier than Mother Nature. Here, Nature humbles me, shows me how puny we are and it’s beautiful to feel that way. It is the truth. The Arctic is a birthplace of life pure and painful. I shall always revere it and respect it…”

On January 18, 2006, Isha sailed on a project that linked three continents. Isha’s post on the ship’s log is as stirring as always, “Life is magic and dreams, reality. Everything here is beyond understanding, comprehension… what are we going to leave behind? Surely we must protect it. None of us can create anything as splendid. This is my deepest desire and I hadn’t known it ‘till I was on board the Rainbow Warrior the first time that I will dedicate my life to this planet, to explore it, understand it, love it, protect it like it were my most precious belonging… It’s hard, hard work… trying to protect the oceans and its creatures. It is a choice we all make in our hearts, and nothing else makes sense. I am so grateful, so humbled to be able in this lifetime
to do a little bit and will strive every day to do more, so that our planet can grow. And grow!”

Isha has a job of immense responsibility. Her duties as a cook involve provisioning of the ship, prior to a voyage, an immense task because “at sea, there are no food shops to visit in case I run out of butter or salt. That’s a huge responsibility. Then, managing the stores, maintaining general cleanliness of the fridges and galley and catering two warm meals a day for 15-30 pax (people).” Her favourite part?

“I have access to ingredients from all over the world… it’s divine, like a fantasy playground or experimental lab. And I love birthdays. A cake is traditional on board and I enjoy baking them.
It’s my attempt at making the ship a better place, a happier one.” Isha also participates in other
aspects of the ship’s missions. Like the ones to record the shipment of illegal timber from national parks in Kalimantan, Indonesia; recording climate change research in the Arctic. “But the most harrowing of all was the anti whaling campaign in the southern ocean. I have been
so lucky and humbled to be part of this movement... (I spent) Sleepless nights of heartache and
tears when we couldn’t save the whale we had been trying for four hours in the cold... well, you take the good with the bad. And, after a while, it’s all good. It is hard to describe what it’s like, every moment for me at sea is memorable."

Isha’s philosophy of food preparation has changed after working with Greenpeace. She uses organic ingredients wherever possible, keep things as close to raw as possible, and uses a minimum of ingredients. Check out the delicious meal she cooked up for some of us recently

Isha’s definition of Greenpeace, “An environmental organisation that works toward spreading awareness about the condition of the planet. By bearing witness, peacefully and non - violently observing what is being done to the planet and bringing what we see to the world so they can open their eyes and work toward saving what they love.”

— As told to Rushina Munshaw-Ghildiyal


Greenpeace is a non-profit organisation with a presence in 40 countries across Europe, the Americas, Asia and the Pacific. As a global organisation, Greenpeace focuses on the most crucial worldwide threats to our planet’s biodiversity and environment.

They campaign to:

Stop climate change
Protect ancient forests
Save the oceans
Stop whaling
Say no to genetic engineering
Stop the nuclear threat
Eliminate toxic chemicals
Encourage sustainable trade

“Greenpeace has been campaigning against environmental degradation since 1971 when a small boat of volunteers and journalists sailed into Amchitka, an area north of Alaska where the US Government was conducting underground nuclear tests.

“To maintain its independence, Greenpeace does not accept donations from governments or corporations but relies on contributions from individual supporters and foundation grants.”

What you can do.....

Make a donation: Since Greenpeace does not accept donations from governments or corporations; and relies on contributions from individuals and foundation grants, your donation will make a difference.

Become an online activist: The community activists hail from 125 countries and territories. Sign up and you get a monthly e-zine and action alerts full of ways to be a one - minute activist. It’s all free.

Volunteer: From envelope- stuffing to Amazon surival training, many working in Greenpeace offices today started out as volunteers. Some countries provide action and non-violence training to those willing to become activists. Talk to your local Greenpeace office or contact the international office in Amsterdam.

Join one of the Green peace ships: Like Isha has shown, sailing aboard a Greenpeace ship
can be the experience of a lifetime. Many ask; few are chosen. To apply, send your CV to: Greenpeace Marine Services, Ottho Heldringstraat 5, 1066 AZ Amsterdam, The Netherlands.
They value maritime experience, safety training, and a wide range of skills in their professional crew.

You can help save the world, every day. Visit Greenpeace to see how you can make changes.