Wednesday, June 29, 2011

An Ode to cooking meat - a Kitchen poem ...


I know! 2 posts in one day! But this one I had to put up! I am not a natural when it comes to cooking meat, having learnt only lately. So I derive great satisfaction when a meat dish turns out well. I was experimenting with a Mexican Lamb dish for an upcoming food festival today and as I cooked, I could see things were going well. It inspired me. My newfound discovery of twitter means I am tweeting while cooking dinner most days, and this happened entirely on its own. I usually save my poetry for my non food writing blog, but this is a Food poem so...

That excellent moment...
when meat lets forth its fat,
marries with spices,
and rises to the top,
of the pot,
in flamboyant shiny glory!

Uncover the pot
unleash,
an orchestra for the nose,
high notes of spice,
that flirt with,

hoarser notes of smokiness
against...
the aroma,

of fat rendering off meat...

You cannot resist, 
a tiny taste.
The morsel,
gives forth its essence,
savory meat juices,
gambol down ur throat,
enflaming in their wake


Flesh melts,
surrendering itself,

to your mouth,
seperating for your teeth,
gliding down your throat...

You mouth waters 4 more
even as your soul sighs

in satisfaction...

Matunga - Mumbai's mini Madras

Matunga - Mini Madras in Mumbai!
On a rainy day last week when I was looking for something quick and spicy to cook I came across a Pepper Rassam paste I picked up from Matunga a few months ago on a trip I took exploring Mumbai’s markets with my friend and food columnist Vikram Doctor. Vikram is very much a market enthusiast and an advocate of food foraging but in a uniquely Mumbai way; that is to go to specific places to buy specific things. In fact he has it down to a fine art - I am just learning! That day on the menu was an exploration of Matunga Market.
Matunga market caters to the South Indian communities of Mumbai and is known to be the hub of all things South Indian in Mumbai, right from ingredients to fabrics, flower garlands and excellent places to eat South Indian food. Vikram and I met at Idli House which is located just out of Kings circle, the sentral point of Matunga. This is a small little restaurant, that is easily missed if you are not looking for it. A tiny basic eatery that serves up excellent home-style idlis (steamed rice flour cakes) in over 25 varieties with fragrant sambaar (tangy lentil gravy), coconut chutney and dry podis or powder chutneys. The variety of unusual idlis on the menu number standard idlis and some lesser known ones such as the oondi, that is full of freshly grated cocnut, khotto an extremely granuallarly textured idli that is steamed in a jackfruit leaf that laces it with traces of the jackfruit leaf flavori. My favourite however was the Pepper idli. Top your idli with a dollop of white Coimbatore butterand finish your meal with a South Indian filter coffee.
After breakfast we made our way to Matunga Market via King’s Circle, home to pavement book sellers, Irani and Udupi eateries, silk sari shops and coffee houses—with clientele spanning generations. Vikram points out all the best places to eat at along the way, Ramashraya, Ram Nayak Udipi, and Sharda Bhavan, famous for their crisp Dosas and gingery Medu Vadas. We stopped to buy some typical South Indian staples at a dark old-school shop manned by two old men; mango pickle, dried berries and dried naarthankai (a south Indian citrus that is delicious). We were escorted along by the heavenly aroma of roasting coffee thanks to the Mysore Coffee concerns outlet that sells fresh ground coffee on one corner. They should bottle that aroma and sell it to all these hi flying coffee shops.
Westopped for a few minutes at Garden fresh a local provision store that stocks all sorts of gourmet goodies including a few really unusual ones. This place is a warren of foodie discoveries! I stocked up pepper and garlic rasam pastes that allow one to cook up flavour laden rasam in seconds, all you need to do is add a spoonful to hot water and give it a good stir and you have piping hot rassam with cloves of garlic, whole chillies and curry leaves floating on a strong tamarind kick! South India’s answer to chicken soup for the soul! Have it as a soup or with rice and something fried on the side great to have handy in the monsoon. Nothing to beat the wet world outside than a little warmth on the inside! Garden fresh is also good for a number of other things. Papad Dosas, that are dosas cooked to crisp butter goodness, great for appetisers although they are traditionally meant to be eaten with a thin chicken curry.
When we (or rather I) had finished buying out the store out, we headed to Matunga market.  Here you will find vendors that stock a variety of unusual tropical vegetables from South India, of course some of them are common to other cuisines as well but here they are clustered for South Indian cuisine; bamboo shoots, colocasia (arbi), breadfruit (delicious and flaky when baked or fried, tapioca, jackfruit, lotus and banana stems, drumstick and banana flowers, Madras kakdi.
Matunga really is like a mini Madras in Mumbai and I came away with memories of colorfull markets full of produce and lovely flowers, beautiful South Indian women, dressed in crisp south silk sarees, shiny black hair adorned with flowers browsing through the bylanes. Its a timless area to lose yourself in.
 When we were done with the market we headed to the City Lights Fish Market, which deserves a post by itself and before we ended the day, Vikram took me to this little hole in the wall place to pick up something very special . Cafe Medina is a non-descript place that caters to bachelors living in the area, serving North Kerala style food. Its on lady Jamshedji Road in Mahim (To find it travel south from the muslim restuarants you see in the area around Mahim dargah you will find it on the right side facing south). We were there to pack a couple of portions of their Kaffa Biryani, a kerela style Biryani made of beef and tapioca. It is spicy as hell and redolent of curry leaves and made the perfect thing to bring home to the husband for lunch!


GYAN and links For great writing on Matunga check out the blog Man from Matunga , Vikram Doctor on Beadfruit  and a look at Kappa Biryani  
Idli House
Menu
More Menu!
Of course!
Add caption
Podis!

Garden Fresh!
Sunday special
Add caption
Sweets
The Rassam pastes in bottles!
A kind of root vegetable I cant remember the name.
White Karela
Breadfruit (costs 20 rupees a piece)
Love the marketing ! "Veg Protien AKA mushrooms!
Vege seller with mix of things
Green peppercorns were in season then...
Banana stem, banana flower and Madras Kakdi
all sorts of bananas
Just loved this one!
Hotel Madina
Kappa on the menu!

Monday, June 27, 2011

Why don’t you ….. stir fry!!! (the longer version of the shorter #Twecipe AKA Twitter Recipe!)

A Colourfull stirfry!

We’re moving house this week and in an attempt to clear out the refrigerator while keeping my commitment to #bglsr on twitter (yes I have discovered both off late), Mystery Stir Fry is on the menu tonight. So chicken half a cabbage, one and a half carrots, some mushrooms a packet of babycorn and some onions , garlic and mushrooms will make their way into the wok today. I will sauté them with some cracked pepper, chilli flakes, chopped garlic and soy sauce and finish with a little chicken stock to steam it all in before I spoon it over steaming hot white rice. And then without further ado we will all dig in and I will tune out the kids to travel back to the Vudu Café in Queenstown, New Zealand where I first tasted it on a cold cold day.
When worries about health are a concern in the monsoons and raw salads are avoided, stirfries offer the perfect way to get a veggie fix. But that stirfries are a favorite way for me to do quick nutritious tasty meals in a jiffy. In fact, they are a good choice for weeknight dinners, since they can easily comprise all the food groups and require no major preparation or washing up. Granted a little cutting is  involved but I find certain contentment had in chopping vegetables just so while the kids squabble outside and FM plays. Get the balance of flavours right along with cooking times and it is hard to go wrong.

Stir-frying is an Asian method of cooking thinly sliced meat and vegetables so that the inherent textures and flavors of the ingredients are retained, typically involving a quick sauté over high heat, sometimes concluding with a brief steaming in a flavored sauce. And while not rocket science, there are a few things one should keep in mind to get tasty results. Stirfries are usually cooked in woks in oriental cuisine, but until you are inspired enough to invest in a proper wok, a medium sized shallow lightweight Kadhai will do just as well because it is similar to a wok in design (with a combination of a certain depth that is hotter and sloping sides that are cooler) allowing one to move ingredients away from the hot centre as they are cooked. (although it is advisable to invest in a quality nonstick wok at some time in your stir frying career)

It is also a good idea to have everything you need ready before you begin. Stir-frying needs to be fast, it won’t allow for time to stop and chop broccoli while the onion is cooking. Cut all your vegetables and meats and prepare your sauce in advance. Vegetables and meats should be approximately the same size (bite sized is best) since everything must be small enough to cook through equally and without burning. When your wok is really hot add oil (I use rice bran oil which has a low flash point). When your oil is hot, add the aromatics that will flavour it, such as ginger and garlic and stir-fry for a few seconds until their aroma is released. Then add your other ingredients stagger their addition according to the length of their cooking time. Ideally start with any meats, stir-fry until almost done, then remove set aside. (Add back at the end, so the meat cooks fully but does not dry out.) Then add harder vegetables like baby corn and carrots, stir-fry for about 2 minutes, then add vegetables like beans, onions and others. Broccoli florets, peppers and greens which require a minimum of cooking time can be added at the end and briefly cooked or just steamed. You do need to exercise a little judgment here - you are aiming for crunchy but cooked vegetables - so at this point if you think they need just a little more cooking time then just continue to stir fry but if you think they are more raw than cooked, cover and steam until done. Practice the basic technique of lifting under the food in the wok with a spatula or other flat utensil and moving it to the side.

The sauce would ideally go in when the ingredients are two-thirds cooked. My foolproof recipe for a stir-fry sauce that always works is 2 tbsp. soy sauce, 2 tbsp. water, 1 tbsp. plain or rice vinegar, 1 tbsp. dry sherry, a pinch of sugar, 1 stock cube and 2 tsp. of chili garlic sauce. You can beat in 1 tsp. corn flour as a thickener if you want.

For delicious stir fried chicken and vegetables Chinese style stir together 1 tbsp corn flour, 1 cup stock, 1 tsp soy sauce and 1 tsp ginger –garlic in a small bowl until well combined. Set aside. In wok heat 1 tsp oil add 500 gms. chicken in batches and stir fry until browned, remove and set aside. Now in same skillet, heat 1 tsp of oil, add 4 cups assorted vegetables with lots of finely chopped garlic and stir fry  until tender but crunchy. Reduce heat to medium and add reserved sauce mixture, toss constantly until thickened and add reserved chicken. Toss well and serve hot over hot steamed rice. Serves 4.

Stir fries needn’t always be oriental, try an Italian style stir fry, combine 1 tbsp oregano, salt and pepper to taste, 1 stock cube and 1/2 cup water in a small bowl and set aside. Heat one tbsp butter with 1 tbsp oil over medium-high heat and add 250 gms. chicken, onions and garlic and stir fry for 2 minutes, or until meat is almost cooked. Add 1 cup of assorted colored capsicum cut into chunks and 4 cups cooked pasta. Add sauce and toss well. Serve with Garlic bread.

I also love to do a tropical seafood stir fry when I find good prawns; Combine 1 cup pineapple juice, 1 cup water, salt, a tbsp of grated ginger, 1 tbsp vinegar, crushed pepper, and 1 tbsp corn flour and set aside. Heat oil, add 250 gms small prawns until pink, (about 3 minutes), remove and set aside. In the same pan, simmer 1 cup hot water; add a cup each of broccoli and red bell pepper. Cover and cook until colors are bright and vegetables are crunchy. Add sauce mix, toss well until thickened add cooked shrimp and 1 cup pineapple chunks mix well. Sprinkle with almonds and serve with rice.

 Formula - Oil+flavourings+meat(sauté and remove)+vegetables+sauce
 
Gyan and links  
Eating out - stirfries are a healthy fibre filled options to ask for at oriental restaurants also called Asian woks and places lik eAll stir fry are where you will find them. As for less oil of water stirfrying.
http://a-perfect-bite.blogspot.com/2010/02/colour-full-marinatedtofu-stir-fry.html


Step by Step Twecipe as tweeted - Why don’t you ….. stir fry!!!
1.     Have everything ready before u begin. Stir-frying needs to be fast, it won’t allow for chopping broccoli while the onion’s cooking!
2.     Cut vegs & meats and prepare sauce in advance.
3.     Vegetables and meats should be cut to approximately the same bite size since everything must be small enough to cook through equally and without burning.
4.     Heat your wok/kadai till it is really hot. Add oil (I use rice bran oil which has a low flash point).
5.     When your oil is hot, add aromatics that will flvr dish. pepper ginger & garlic since its the monsoon or spices. STfry for a few seconds.
6.     Then add your other ingredients staggering their addition according to the length of their cooking time.
7.     Ideally start with any meats, stir-fry until almost done, remove and  reserve. (Add back at the end, so the meat cooks fully but does not dry out.)
8.     Add hardier vegetables like baby corn and carrots, stir-fry for about 2 minutes, then add softer vegetables like beans, onions and others.
9.     The trick with stirfrying is that the moisture from vegetables evaporates as soon as it is released so vegs are crunchy but tender
10.  Vegetables like Broccoli florets, capsicums & greens that require a minimal cooking can be added at the end and briefly cooked or just steamed.
11.  Practice the basic technique of lifting under the food in the wok with a spatula or other flat utensil and moving it to the side.
12.  Your sauce would ideally go in when the ingredients are two-thirds cooked.
13.  You do need to exercise a little judgment here - you are aiming for crunchy but cooked vegetables.
14.  At this point if you think they need just a little more cooking time then continue to stir fry but if you think they are more, raw than cooked, add stock cover and steam until done.