Showing posts with label Cover story. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cover story. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Eating out healthy - cover story for BTW magazine

Eating out healthy

The one thing I cannot resist is Chinese food, apna Indian Chinese, that is. In fact the totally “paisa vasool” but absolutely unhealthy personal buffet at the Mah Jong restaurant in Khar was on the menu regularly until nutritionist Naini Setalvad, enlightened me, “an ideal restaurant meal should total upto 500 – 800 calories, but in the case of Indian Chinese, which comprises of deep fried, corn flour gravy smothered dishes like Manchrian, Chilli chicken, and fried wontons, your calorie intake can shoot up to a whopping 2-3000 calories at a single meal. Factor in the buffet format, and you can cross all limits!” Needless to say I was shocked…

As a food writer eating out is a hazard of the job and I probably do it more than most but there is not doubt about the fact that between working lunches, convenient dinners from the local take-away, week end fast-food treats for the kids and intimate dinners with friends and family, there is always a reason to eat out and it is a practice we are indulging in more and more. BUT does health factor in anywhere?

Eating out is perceived as a celebratory occasion and it is usually buoyed by the intention to indulging oneself. Conversely eating healthy on the other hand labours under the misconception of lack of flavour and depriving oneself. Health is therefore never a priority when we dine out unless diet related problem or allergies to food are a concern.

Mumbai based nutritionist Naini Setalvad defines the parameters “Ideally the meal should not cross 750 calories. Alcohol, would take up the calorie intake and it is very easy to stay within the limit if you choose sensibly” Delhi’s Dr Shikha Sharma says “The Ayurveda stresses that one should compartmentalize the stomach into three parts, one for solids, one for liquid and the remaining for the air and space for juices to work properly the stomach to digest food. It is a good idea to go for small portions rather than large ones, eat a variety of foods in different portions. Keep refined foods like maida, to the minimum but whole wheat items are a good choice.”

Primary to health is eating at hygienic places, so avoid dirty restaurants. Also ensure that food is freshly and properly cooked especially non vegetarian food. If you are intending to eat out, plan ahead in advance. Adjust other meals in the day, adding fibre and vegetables which contain a fraction of the calories of other foods but are high in bulk and filling. However, do not make this a habit, Setalvad cautions – “If you eat out regularly, adjusting or skipping meals regularly could result in a lack of vitamin and mineral intake.”

Over the years however, I have found I can indulge myself and eat healthy at the same meal – not because I want to lose weight – the primary reason for practicing control but because I want to maintain a healthy lifestyle. Eating healthy need not mean flavourless food, subsisting on salads or depriving myself, but in fact eating a nutritionally balanced meal that provided one’s body with fuel from all the food groups without any one element being disproportionably large or small. But with the vast plethora of food options available; Oriental, Indian, Italian how does one keep track?

Some measures that I have found work include deciding on the restaurant and cuisine at a time when I am on a full stomach. We are advised not to shop for groceries on an empty stomach because it triggers purchase of instant and junk foods. The same theory applies here. I find I make wiser choices when I am on a full stomach and extend this theory to ordering as well. An empty stomach also makes our eyes bigger than our stomachs I find a light calorie free snack like some cucumber, a fruit or a handful of channa before I leave for a meal out keeps me from over ordering and consequently overeating to avoid waste. I have also befriended the Doggie bag! If a serving size is large and I can’t share it with dining partners. There is no limit on how much leftover food you can carry home after all. Worse come to worse, I do allow food to go waste, after all a last piece of something might not make a dent in the trash can but it will on your body.

Making choices from an extensive menu is always tough, but being faced with decoding unrecognizable ethnic dish names and exotic ingredients can make things tougher. If you are in doubt about a dish, an ingredient or even serving or portion size, do not hesitate to ask. Your server is supposed to be able to help you order. If a serving seems too large, ask if the restaurant can do a smaller portion. Where possible, request any sauces, or gravies be served "on the side". Some restaurants like Soam at Babulnath in Mumbai will make almost all their dishes with a minimum of oil on request. Similarly you can also ask for extra vegetables instead of French fries at continental restaurants and no Msg at Chinese restaurants.

When ordering start with water with a twist of lime or fresh lime soda (with sugar syrup on the side) in place of an aerated drink, or and alcoholic beverage because these can go up to 300 calories and yet bring no nutrition to your meal. Diet sodas are an option but I am always wary of the chemicals they contain. I fing coconut water is a good option if available. Fruit juice and alcohol are high in sugar so ordering moderately is advisable.

Chances are you will be hungry by the time food comes to the table which makes the starters course most hazardous. Chose wisely when ordering appetizers, look for options that are not fried and try to share selections with dining companions. I find adding a salad to the appetizer course helps me bulk up on fibre. When opting for the Salad bar, eat limited quantities of pre mixed salads on the bar - they are usually too heavy on fat laden dressings and watch out for high-fat dressings, cheeses and fried croutons individually as well. In a pinch vinegar or lemon juice and a dash of good olive oil work perfectly too. I prefer lower-calorie options for salad dressings but these can also add up so I prefer to request them on the side and dip my fork in the salad dressing before spearing bites of salad. I consume less dressing and keep my salad crunchy to the end.

Soups can serve as a great precursor to a meal because they are excellent for filling up on but avoid “cream off” anything soups, cream-based soups which are higher in fat and calories. Instead, opt for clear soups which are full of flavour but low on calories. If served bread with your soup, by all means have some but pick up whole wheat or grain bread which can be identified by the light to dark brown of their insides or any grain scattered on top. Plain bread is ok if there is nothing else but the butter and oil you eat it with can add that increases the fat and calories even if it is Olive oil. According to Setalvad 6 tea spoons of olive oil = 1 cup of ice-cream!

When ordering your main course, look for items on the menu that are baked, grilled, sautéed, broiled, poached, or steamed, all cooking techniques that use less fat and generally lower in calories compared to foods that are breaded or fried. In case food comes breaded, peel off the outer coating and discard if possible. Choose mains with fruit and vegetables that are a good source of dietary fiber as well as of many vitamins and minerals. Foods made with whole grain, like whole-wheat bread, pasta and dishes made with brown rice are better options than those made with processed flour. Try to eat the same portion as you would at home and chewing slowly because your body takes a while to tell you it is full. If you are craving dessert, opt for something like sorbet, fresh berries or fruit or share with your dining companion. Half the dessert still equals half the calories!

Street food is perhaps the hardest food to make healthy choices with. Being the cheapest option available, also makes it the most nutritionally unbalanced since it maximizes on the use of high carbohydrate foods such as rice and potatoes which are cheaper. By the same rule, street food is usually partially or fully fried because that is the easiest way to cook food fast economically. Watch out for deep fried offerings such as Vada Paav, Samosa and Medu Vada, the Dabeli is only marginally less dangerous since it comes sans the fried potato vada in it. Paav Bhaji can be improved on if the vendor does it with minimal butter for you. Of the many puri offerings most would be inadvisable because the puri itself is fried but Bhel without the Puri and sev could be more acceptable. Your best option with street food would be Dosa without added butter or cheese and idlis. The accompanying coconut chutney should be consumed in moderation. Chinese street food of street carts is perhaps the worst version of Chinese you could eat. It is usually too oily and maxes out on rice and maida thickened gravies. Vegetables are expensive and you will only see a smattering of them.

One step up from street food is fast food. Higher priced than street food but still a cheaper option than many, marketing has made it attractive to children. Remember though, you can clock up more than 1000 calories in just one fast food meal and it’s easy to eat an entire day's worth of fat, salt, and calories in just one fast food meal. Making wise choices will afford you a relatively healthy meal in comparison to ordering blindly, however. If fast-food is on the menu I try to ensure other meals that day contain healthier foods, with more fruit and vegetables and that the cooking style of all the food is not deep fried or heavy on fat. When ordering fast food treat words like jumbo, giant, deluxe, and super-sized like the plague. They only mean larger portions and more calories, fat, cholesterol and salt than body might require. Stick to a regular or junior-sized portion and go back for seconds if required. Avoid toppings like mayonnaise and remember that extra slice of cheese carries an extra 100 calories per ounce, as well as added fat and sodium.

Pizza can be a relatively good fast food choice but opt for thin crust pizzas with lots of vegetable toppings and grilled chicken. Limit yourself to 1-2 slices and keep in mind extra cheese adds calories, fat and sodium. In the case of Mexican fast foods, order non-fried items, go easy on cheese and sour cream, and pile on the lettuce, tomatoes, and fresh tomato salsa. Chinese food may seem like a healthy choice, but many dishes are deep fried or high in fat and sodium, especially in the sauces. It might also be worth your while to skip the cookie or ice-cream and opt for a low fat Gelato or fruit at home. Sorbets and low cal gelatos have less fat and fewer calories than ice cream and can be chock full of sugar so sugar free versions might be an option. I sometimes carry a low fat dessert option with me from home - something I love - so I will look forward to it and not be tempted by other things. I also love the berry yoghurt from Amore and grab any chance to indulge in it.

There are a few healthy options for junk food. Grilled or broiled patties in burgers are now a possibility at the Bembos chain of burger joints. Subway sandwiches for a lunch on the go or a family meal out are also an option. The chain consciously chose a marketing drive that focused on nutrition that is usually ignored by clientele but paying attention to it will offer you the option of a more nutritionally balanced meal. I am also a fan of Wraps and rolls, the company is consciously trying to promote healthier options, they now offer rotis made of multi grain, soya and palak in addition to the less healthy maida and most of the rolls are relatively healthy since they are stuffed with chicken or paneer and do not have mayonnaise – the ones to watch out for are the Smokey chicken and the falafel.

Here are guidelines to eating out healthier at more upmarket places as well.

With regional foods, Setalvad points out that “Creamy, rich gravies in vegetables, heavy ghee tadkas in dals and other preparations and a liberal use of butter and oil in pickles, papads and other side dishes can be difficult to avoid in regional Indian food.” She suggests that one opt for vegetables that are grilled or sauteed, kachumbars, dals with minimal tadkas and rotis made of whole wheat, jowar or bajra. “Udipi cuisine, although perceived as healthy, can be excessive in its use of coconut and ghee in most dishes so opt for Rassams, vegetable stews, neer dosa, idli, uttapas and appams.” In the case of coastal cuisines, too much coconut and fried fish can be pitfalls. Try to strike a balance between a coconut gravyied dish but lighter vegetable dishes and grilled fish with Neer dosa.

According to Dr Sharma “one cannot think about mughlai without the meat dishes but it is advisable to stick to white meat like chicken. Options like Shorbas without cream, Chicken tikka masala, khadhai chicken, egg curry without yolk (discard the yolk), Murg methi & fish curry are advisable. In the case of kebabs and tandoori style foods, paneer / hara kebabs could be a healthy delight if the binding used is wheat bran or egg complimented with a combination of green chutney/ mint chutney. Chicken and paneer could be grilled and roasted in tandoor to enhance the flavor and taste. Try to avoid ketchups and thickened sauces.

With world cuisine, Italian just happens to be the favourite in India and although Italians are some of the healthiest people in the world, Italian cuisine has gained a propensity for using excessive amounts of cheese and white flour with its arrival onto Indian plates. Olive oil, be touted as healthy is liberally used as well. Setalvad advises bulking up on anti pasti, opting for grilled fish/chicken, whole grain pastas in tomato based or Pesto sauces and skipping the Tiramisu at the end or sharing it. In the case of Indian Chinese the other favourite in India, Setalvad advises against dishes that contain M.S.G. and excessive oil. “Opt for clear soups grilled sautéed or steamed starters, insist on sautéed vegetables and meats that are not drowning in corn flour gravies and remember steamed rice is better than fried and stay far far away from desserts like honey noodles and fried ice-cream.”

That said Oriental and Japanese cuisines are some of the healthiest available if done right. There is very little in Japanese cuisine that is detrimental and eating a nutritionally balanced meal is easy. The only things to watch out for are occaissional fried dishes such as Tempura and fried Tofu. Thai food is also fairly healthy if the curries are cooked solely in coconut milk with no added oil to them and one stays away from the fried starters and pork dishes. I love Thai and usually start light with a Som Tam salad of green papaya and a Tom yum soup so I can indulge myself with a Thai curry and steamed rice for my main course with perhaps a grilled side dish.

Healthy options on the Menu are no longer a foreign concept. Restaurants have recognized that people want to eat well and stay fit.

Soam restaurant at Babulnath, in keeping with their Home style ghar ka khaana theme recognized the need to cater to those with special dining needs and recently added a weight watchers meal to their menu comprising of a daily lightly sauteed green vegetable Khatta Mug ni Dal (whole green moong cooked in yoghurt offered with a choice of jowar, bajra, nachni, or whole wheat flour rotis and salad. The Taj group, always pioneereing in culinary circles, has taken healthy eating beyond just the on request stage. Their refurbished menu follows dietician recommended tips like, cooking in olive oil, offering light soups and doing away with heavy gravies. They also went ahead to open PURE at the Taj Land’s end, which offers indulgene of a different kind – fine dining using organic ingredients and healthy cooking methods.

The Oberoi is another Chain offering healthy choices. They offer Sushi at the Tiffin restaurant. While India Jones at the Hilton Towers offers has introduced Korean Set that offer balanced meals comprising of by Korean Namuls-a variety of vegetarian side dishes, rice, salads and a variety of oils & sauces followed by fruits and sujonka a digestive cinnamon drink. Frangipani has added fresh healthy flavours of the Mediterranean to their menu.

And thanks to the opening of China house at the rand Hyatt, I was most gratified to find that one can eat a very healthy and balanced Chinese meal in Mumbai now. We began with Ginseng chicken soup slow simmered with Chinese dates, forest mushrooms and wolfberries, Steamed spinach with mustard-sesame sauce, Cantonese prawn 'siu mai' and Sichuan poached chicken with crushed peanuts for starters, main course was Beggar's Chicken with fragrant spices, filled with Sichuan mustard greens, wrapped in lotus leaf and baked in clay and the Lamb shank 'hot pot' served with fragrant coriander buns. Nothing was deep fried, everything was full of flavour and I tallied things to find I had a perfectly balanced meal.

If you want more low-calorie, low-cholesterol choices, say so. Restaurants, like any business, offer what their customers want and will only know what you want if you tell them. The establishments above have made changes because they saw the need and other will too. Eating out can be one of life's great pleasures. Make the right choices, ask for what you need, and balance your meals out with healthy meals at home and you can enjoy yourself and take care of yourself at the same time without depriving yourself of foods you love.

Rushina Munshaw Ghildiyal

Sunday, December 31, 2006

Mumbai on the platter

A few days ago a small corner of a leading daily quietly reported the closing of China White, (to reopen as Royal China) a restaurant that opened to amazing press coverage a mere 8 months ago. Two pages down in the same paper three stalwarts of the Mumbai dining scene were seen celebrating great innings with their establishments; Gaylords turned 50, Trattoria at the president turned 25 and relative baby Olive turned 6. This is the ever changing foodscape of Mumbai. For a foodie, Mumbai is the proverbial oyster - nowhere in India is dining more rewarding than here!

With India opening up to foreign trade, Mumbaikars have more money, less free time and a greater exposure to foreign influences. This has had immense impact on what they eat and the way they eat. And restaurants, exotic sections at supermarkets, food sections in dailies and publications, books on food and cooking, food on the TV, Radio and internet, the advent of swish cooking classes and food travel are all registering activity. India [is] shining on the gastronomic scene and nowhere is this fact more obvious than in Mumbai.

The world on Mumbai’s Menu
“276 restaurants, 81 confectioners and chocolatiers, plus a guide to secret ingredients” exclaims the 1997 edition of the Good food guide to Mumbai written by Rashmi Uday Singh. In the eighties, eating out was reserved for special occasions and meant picking from Mughlai and Punjabi for Indian food, continental and Italian in terms of world cuisine and of course the obsequious “Chinese” we love with a vengeance. That was before Rahul Akerkar’s Indigo and A. D. Singh’s Olive, followed by the success of Basillico and Moshe’s. That is when the dining sector of Mumbai opened up to the stand alone restaurant. Today eating out is the in thing in Mumbai, it offers entertainment and there is a smorgasbord of offerings to pick from.

Mumbaikars love their food, are open to trying everything and have the pick of the proverbial candy box to choose from. Restaurants of every ilk, offer a plethora of dining options with both regional cuisines – Punjabi, Peshawari, Gujarati, Bengali, Malwani, Goan, Maharashtrian, South Indian and a lot in between – as well as world cuisine – Tibetan, Chinese, Korean, Moroccan, Malaysian, Indonesian, Italian, Lebanese, Burmese and Mongolian are on the menu.

Deap Ubhi the mastermind behind “Burrp!, Inc” sums things up, “I’m originally from San Francisco, which I believe has the best dining scene in the world, and after settling down in Mumbai, I must admit I was pleasantly surprised. What makes Mumbai special is the variance, not only in cuisines, but also in food types, ambiance, etc. On any given night, I can go to Shiro in Worli for some awesome sushi, grab some drinks with friends at Geoffrey’s in town and then head to Juhu at 3AM after partying and have some of the best egg bhurji on the planet from a popular roadside stall. It’s just great.” No wonder then, that, 5 editions down the line the 2005 issue of the good food guide collated upwards of 1000 restaurant reviews!

Taking a moment from putting together the latest good food guide, Rashmi Uday Singh conveys palpable excitement across the phone line. “I have mapped the gastronomic scene of Mumbai for the last 24 years, but it is in the last 3-4 years that it has been at its most exciting and off late it is downright thrilling!... I mean, imagine this, yesterday I reviewed a South American Burger joint (Bembos) and just before that I checked out a stand alone Japanese restaurant (Tetsuma) and it is not just the restaurants, look into my 2005 food guide and the food shops section will amaze you. The new one is looking even better, I have even found a caterer that does Sushi!”
40 % of the 2005 guide reviewed, Food shops, Tiffin and food service providers and home entrepreneurs and there was a whole book dedicated to nightlife. Once a cuisine appeals at a restaurant, the natural one wants to try cooking it at home. I remember a time when Chinese – albeit Indian - food was made with metallic tasting canned mushrooms and baby corn usually sourced from Crawford market in sauces cooked up at home. Today these delicious fungi and bonsai corn cobs can be found at the corner subziwalla jostling for space alongside a host of quaintly categorised as “English vegetables” and everything from Soy sauce to chilli oil is available at local supermarkets or even at the savvier corner Kirana stores. Nostalgia and wonder aside, this quite neatly illustrates Mumbai’s dining graph.

There are three stages in a Cuisines amalgamation onto Mumbai’s menus. The first introductory stage in which a rash of restaurants will mushroom all over the city - Japanese cuisine is at this nascent stage in Mumbai currently. The second is the retail stage when supermarkets begin to stock imported ingredients related to a cuisine - Italian, Thai and Mexican have progressed to this stage now; Olive Oil, Risotto, Curry pastes are all available locally as was evidenced at the recent Uppercrust Food and wine show which was populated with numerous importers of ingredients from all over the world. The third stage is that of integration – the final frontier in which the demand for a product is high enough for the local corner store to allocate space for it in the constraints of the small space it has. This is where the “Chinese” we are addicted to is comfortably nestled.


Food for the mind
The first cookbook I ever owned was Cooking at Felicity house by Roahld Dahl. I loved it for the interesting stories accompanying each recipe. I cannot say I have ever cooked from that book, but it is still a valued part of a cookbook collection that is upwards of 500 strong today. Of these about 40% are Indian and about 5 % are ones that I keep going back to. The two books I love the most are both self published tomes rich with information and sound guidance. Although cookbooks and books on food have registered a tremendous surge over the last few years, the market is still at a nascent stage. Tarla Dalal, Sanjeev Kapoor, Nita Mehta, Karen Anand and Jiggs Kalra are all household names but books below the Rs.200 mark are still a preferred choice, perhaps because our cookbooks have yet to go beyond being mere collations of recipes.


While Books are showing a surge of some kind publications are not. The sign of a trend coming into being is the increasing amounts of real estate it acquires in publications. One would think that with gastronomy becoming so popular, the print media would be overflowing with interesting articles on food. Not so. “There hasn’t been a noteworthy growth in food writing” observes Lewis “Although there are just more publications as compared to a decade ago, there hasn’t been a very dramatic shift in the way each handles food, the subject still has limited attention” he concludes. There has been a huge increase in the number of publications launching in India in the last year but few seem to focus on food. Scan the dailies and you will see none go beyond reporting food events, giving recipes and reviewing restaurants – although I must say Jharna Thakkar of HT manages to make these interesting to read too.


Antoine Lewis erstwhile food writer and editor of Savvy cookbook, recalls “the first publication to include a full food page was the Sunday Observer. C Y Gopinath did a delightful column with Saturday times although he was not a food writer, Sharada Dwivedi the historian also wrote on food with Shalini Devi Holkar the cookbook author although those were occasional articles that explored community cooking, Shatbi Basu did a column for the Sunday Midday and Anil Dharkar did restaurant reviews for the Saturday Times but they were all occasional writers on food not dedicated to the subject”


Interestingly it is Lewis’s magazine Savvy Cookbook that has survived as the oldest dedicated food publication in India, outliving predecessors such as Cuisine, Foodtalk and Food magazine. Two other magazines that devote a large part of their editorial are Tarla Dalal’s Cooking and More which seems to be more of a publicity driven publication and the pricey Uppercrust magazine whose visual coverage of food is stunning and extensive but falls short on the writing front.


Some publications do realise the importance of a food section. Timeout, Mumbai a fortnightly publication of Mumbai carries one of the meatiest food sections in the city and is a font for information on food. Naresh Fernandes, editor of Timeout Mumbai emphasises “The food section is extremely important for Time Out Mumbai and is among our most popular sections. It not only tells readers what's new about the city's dining scene but also tries to interpret what our changing food habits mean in the context of the city's larger social and economic transformation. We're committed to writing about street food and food histories as well as the higher-end restaurant scene. After all, we believe that we are what we eat!”


While the foodscape of Mumbai is growing in leaps and bounds, the food writing scene is yet to take off but one is happy to let it take it’s time as long as one has two erudite columns; that of Vir Sanghvi in the Hindustan Times Sunday magazine “Brunch” – although that can drag on rare occasions and the Sunday ET one by Vikram doctor Sunday to Sunday!


Bridging the food divide
An interesting off shoot of the restaurant boom has been the restaurant PR agency. With the growing amount of publications in the city waking up to food, some one has to bridge the gap between food producers and their consumers. It is diligent PR people retained by restaurants that ensure the “events” section of publications teem with happenings. Aseem Dixit of Wraps and Rolls had an extremely viable product but “Noting that business depended solely on word of mouth publicity I decided to retain the services of a PR agent. This turned out to be a great move since it brought us instant awareness and we have grown in leaps and bounds in a relatively short spam of time.” This is not two say that a PR agency can create wonders, restaurants today launch in a blaze of publicity but Mumbaikars do not suffer fools gladly so if the product is bad, it will fizzle out. Hence is the immense turnover in restaurants


Like publications, Indian TV too is lagging behind on food reporting. Content offered currently is a khichdi of reruns of shows from other parts of the world, cooking shows like Khana Khazana and restaurant reviews. In this mire I happened to catch an episode of the “the Foodie” on Times now in which intrepid foodie host Kunal Vjayakar was traipsing about in Karnataka in a lungi and purple shirt doing a Rajnikant with a pair of goggles. What is refreshing about this food show is that it does not subscribe to the age old format of beautifully decorated kitchen with chef demonstrating dishes. Kunal brings a refreshing angle of curiosity and fun to food. No wonder, after all it was his statement “I wake up and wonder, what am I going to have for breakfast, then lunch and dinner” inspired Preeti Prasad EP of the show to conceptualise a show around him that would truly celebrate food “The Foodie celebrates the art of Gluttony” she says with pride.


The Virtual Byte
Once, locating a recipe for a dish or the description of an ingredient might have meant leafing through the pages of the nearest cookbook but not anymore. The World Wide Web has become a one stop shop for any information required on gastronomy. Discover the cuisine of Mumbai through the Indian food forum of www.egullet.org, the food forums of Another Subcontinent. (www.anothersubcontinent.com) and (www.gourmetindia.com) where the serious Gourmets of India congregate. The latest website to launch is “Burrp!” which was inspired by a problem – the absolutely lack of online resources for users to not only find, but also share their experiences about local businesses. Says Deap Ubhi its creator, “From a business perspective, choosing the internet as a platform is obviously much less capital intensive. It just makes business sense. It is much easier and much more efficient to enable a community online. Had this been a publication, we could not engage in a two-way relationship with our users, i.e. provide information and expect user reviews. Magazines are severely limited in this manner in that all they can do is push information. Our Mumbai portal, went live on August 15th of this year. Response has been fantastic, as our online traffic has grown at very aggressive clips over the past few months. Also, as the product gets deeper in terms of features, i.e. e-ticketing for movies and local events, we also expect to see volume from that as well.

If you do not find what you are looking for on websites or discussion forums, you’ll probably find it on one of the millions of foodblogs out there. Foodblogs resulted when Foodies discovered blogs (Short for weblogs) or online journals. There are a select few blogging on food in Mumbai, Gaurav is eating his way through the restaurants of Mumbai on his blog Bombay Dining (http://eatingoutinbombay.blogspot.com), while Anthony of Anthony’s Kitchen (http://anthonyskitchen.blogspot.com), the self Proclaimed Maharajah of Bachelor Cooking and has made it his mission to enlighten those people – students, bachelors away from home and newlyweds - that subsist on takeaway and Maggi that it is easy to cook some very delicious yet simple food at home. and Pune based Vikram Karve is talking about his favourite food and where he eats it on the Food Blog of Vikram Karve (http://foodiekarve.sulekha.com/), I found his post in early April on his favourite foodwalks in Mumbai and Pune very enlightening.

Another aspect that is registering activity is that of food travel. While India is the flavour of the moment around the world and attracts a lot of Gastronomic tourist, Indians who are born gastronome’s are yet to really discover food travel. India’s number one holiday brand, Club Mahindra recently added a new product to the repertoire “Gourmet Holidays” which give members of Club Mahindra an opportunity to sample the world's finest cuisines and step inside different cultures. Recognising that of life’s greatest pleasures come from wonderful food shared with family they recently conducted the first Gourmet holiday at Coorg.
The Coorg Gourmet holiday was an experience in indulging in the gastronomic delicacies one’s palate desires! The holiday offered a variety of exotic cuisines and wholesome food experiences for two nights and three days. The cuisines that were offered include, Gujarati and Rajasthani, South Indian, Greek and Continental. There were also insightful workshops on olive oil, chocolates and salads along with unique regional entertainment programs. We plan to offer such experiences to members at our other resorts too.

2007 will see Japanese Cuisine strengthen and grow in popularity, perhaps even enter the home kitchen. The advent of Bembos might indicate an awakening to South American cuisine. Regional Indian micro-cuisines will continue to gain popularity. Overall Health and wellness will become more important. Eating organic is already gaining momentum although certification is still a question mark but sustainable farming and fair trade practices will take a while to be recognised however, the retail revolution will have to play itself out first. The foodscape of Mumbai is set to soar in 2007, get ready to savour the experience.
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Thursday, March 16, 2006

Garhwali Cuisine, Savvy Cook book, April 2005

Off the beaten path THE TRAVELLER’S FEAST

Despite most hotels cooks and service staff being drawn from the hills of Uttaranchal, the cuisine of this northern state has never received much attention. But now, as it slowly transforms itself into an enchanting tourist destination, visitors are becoming curious about local flavours. Here’s the lowdown on the tastes and aromas you’re likely to savour between treks up the hills and rafting down the streams.

UTTARANCHAL, CARVED OUT from the northern part of UP and almost at the foothills of the magnificent Himalayas is an idyllic holiday destination for the family. Historically, the towns of Haridwar and Rishikesh have been centres of religious pilgrimages, but with mainstream tourism starting to make an impact, a basket of secular outdoor activities are also being encouraged. Adventure sport enthusiasts flock to these pilgrim towns to indulge in some white water rafting, while others prefer to go skiing in Auli, or trekking in The Valley of Flowers.

Uttaranchal caters to most taste buds and you will find something to suit your palate in terms of food as well. There are a plethora of restaurants available, ranging from street food to the in-house restaurants at the various hotels. Even Dominoes and Pizza Hut make their presence felt in the capital city of Dehra Dun. Other great options for a quick meal or a snack are the many sweetshops and bakeries (a happy legacy of the Raj). Uttaranchali food, commonly known as Garhwali or Pahari food, is however a fairly unknown cuisine. Hidden away as Uttaranchal was in Uttar Pradesh all these years, the many distinguishing elements of Pahari culture have come to the fore only recently. Uttaranchal is gaining popularity and the tourism department is promoting all things Pahari including its cuisine. While several Melas and Craft Festivals have showcased Garhwali food, there are however, no popular restaurants that serve Garhwali food. The only way to get one’s hands on a Pahari meal is by sweet-talking the local chefs at your accommodation or being invited to a Garhwali Home.

Pahari food should not be confused with Kashmiri or other high altitude regional cuisines of India. Pahari food is a distinct regional cuisine by itself that splits into two branches — Garhwali food from the Garhwal region and Kumaoni food from the Kumaon region. While the roots of both branches are the same with a number of common dishes, there are

distinct regional variations, sometimes in the style of preparation but mostly due to variations in locally available Ingredients. Eating out is not a norm among urban Garhwalis who prefer fresh, home-cooked food. The cuisine of both urban and rural Uttaranchal is unpretentious and based on easily obtained seasonal ingredients. Recipes are wholesome, effortlessly prepared and come to the table fresh of the flame, steaming hot and comforting.

Pahari people are very hard working. They work long hours in unsociable climates and their diet needs to be flavourful, filling, nutritious and easily prepared. In a rural Pahari kitchen the day will begin with a hurried meal of mandua (finger millet flour) rotis or bhari rotis (thick rotis usually stuffed with dal) eaten with ghee and/or lehsun ki chutney, (made by pounding green garlic shoots with salt in a mortar). Sometimes family members

might carry leftovers for the midday meal but more often than not, the next meal in the home will be at day’s end. The main meal of the day is usually made up of the Indian staple of rice and dal, supplemented by large quantities of leafy greens when in season. The meal could be enhanced with chutneys or pickles. In the winter, when fresh produce is not as easily available, preserved or dried foods stored in the seasons of plenty will complement the main meal. As one moves towards the cities, the meal compositions might change to encompass eclectic dishes and midday meals.

The Pahari cook’s repertoire is full of recipes for dals – that being the main form of protein in the diet. While better known dals like arhar (toor), malka (masoor or red lentil split and skinned) and channa are consumed here, there is a predominance of urad dal in Pahari cuisine, which is served in a phenomenal number of variations. Whole urad roasted and ground makes chainsoo, a textured puree to be eaten with rice. Split urad soaked, skinned and ground makes phanu, again to be eaten with rice and ghee. Split skinned and ground urad is also flavoured and fried into special pakodis or mixed with select vegetables and dried for use in the winter months. Tor (pigeon pea) and gehat (kulith or horsegram) are the other local dals. Kumaoni food also uses a lot of whole black soyabean called bhatt that is locally available.

Vegetables are prepared when time permits, but usually the most commonly eaten vegetables are leafy green vegetables. Paharis eat a wide variety of green leafy vegetables, colocasia, mustard, chawli and radish greens, indigenous spinach called Pahadi Palak and another indigenous fern called the Lingure, even kandalee (poison ivy). Leafy greens are usually cooked simply by stir frying the chopped leaves in smoking mustard oil that has been tempered with jakhiya, a mustard-like spice that has a nutty flavour and is indigenous to Garhwal. Pahari cuisine gets its starch from wheat flour, finger millet flour, various strains of rice and millets prominent among which is ihangora (barnyard millet).

Food is cooked in mustard oil and ghee. Prominent flavorings are asafetida, chillies in their fresh and dry form, garlic and ginger. Until a while ago, yogurt and amchur were generally used to add the sour flavour to dishes, tomatoes not being native to India were not easily available in this region and came at a premium. Tomatoes are now widely available and have been incorporated into traditional recipes. With progress other vegetables have also been added to the culinary repertoire but are usually reserved for occasions when time and pocket permit, or the back garden bears fruit. While this is a traditional Pahari diet, as one moves toward the cities, influences of North Indian cuisine become apparent. (parathas, pickles some sweet dishes like kheer and gajar halwa. Festive food is another example. The most important among festive foods are the roat, arsa and urad pakori but pooris, kaddu ki subzi and alu-tamatar ka jhol are obviously North Indian adoptions.

The non vegetarian repertoire of the Garhwali housewife is small in terms of specific dishes despite meat being a large part of the diet. When big game hunting was allowed, most homes had their own standard curry recipes according to which the meat was cooked. Nothing of the animal was allowed to go to waste, leftover meat was pickled, trotters were made into a soup, and the intestines were made into Bhuttua, a version of blood pudding that was then fried in masala. The most notable traditional meat dish that you might encounter today is Kachmauli. For this, a whole animal (usually a goat nowadays) is smoked for hours over a fire of green leaves and tender twigs. When done, the meat is taken off the bone while still slightly underdone, tossed in raw mustard oil, salt, chili and turmeric and served up.

While there are several sweet preparations aside from kheer that a Pahari housewife will put on her table, some traditional ones are no longer made at home. Sweetshops are another gastronomic landmark of Uttaranchal. They usually have famous Pahari sweets

like, ‘chocolate’ and ‘Bal Mithai’, and occasionally stock ‘Singhori’ in season. ‘Chocolate’ is milk reduced to a solid form, set and cut into chunks while Bal Mithai is the same “chocolate” studded with sugar balls. Singhori is a sweetmeat molded in an indigenous leaf called a malla ke patta that results in little cones fragrant with an elusive scent of the leaf packaging.

We’ve also managed to garner some Uttaranchalli recipes – a blend of both Kumaoni and Garhwali – that can be easily cooked at home. While we have given separate recipes for the Ras and the Badil, Badil are usually made out of the cooked dals that are left after Ras is strained out. These leftover dals are cooked down to a pulp and the made into Badil.

RAS

SERVES 6 COOKING TIME: 1-1.5 HOURS

This is a very appetizing and highly nutritious dish from Kumaon. Made from a mixture of dals, usually in an iron Kadhai, it is typically eaten in winters along with steamed rice and bhang ki chutney but can be served as a soup.

Ingredients
½ cup gahat (horse gram)
¼ cup rajma
¼ cup lobia
¼ cup kala chana
¼ cup kabuli chana
¼ cup whole urad
½ cup bhatt (black soyabean)
1 tsp coriander powder
1 tsp cumin powder
½ tsp red chili powder
½ tsp garam masala
2 tbsp ghee
1 tbsp cumin
½ tsp jambu – garhwali herb akin to
chives (optional)
3-4 whole red chilies
salt to taste

Method

Soak all the dals overnight. Boil them in plenty of water till soft. The proportion of water should be 5-7 times the quantity of dals. You can use a pressure cooker for this but ensure the water is plentiful.

When done, either mash or strain out the solids (reserve for Badil) or mash the dals well and blend and return to stock.

Save the stock. Put the stock on heat and keep boiling till it starts to thicken. Once the stock reaches a rolling boil add turmeric, coriander powder, cumin powder, red chilli powder garam Masala and salt to taste. When the Ras has a gravy-like consistency, take off the heat.

Heat ghee in a small kadai. Put in the whole red chilies, a pinch of asafetida, cumin, and jambu (if available). Allow to crackle and pour over ras.

Serve with lots of ghee and steamed rice.

BADIL

MAKES ABOUT 24 PIECES COOKING TIME: 45 MINUTES-1 HOUR

Badil is a Kumaoni dish that can be served as a starter. This is usually served with a Bhang (hemp) seed chutney, but if Bhang seeds are unavailable then the following recipe for Til Chutney makes an equally delicious accompaniment.

Ingredients

1 cup whole black gram
2 cups mixed dal – equal portions of arhar or toor, moong and chana
½ cup oil or ghee
10 cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
2-cm piece of ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 tsp ajwain
3-4 green chilies
1 tsp cumin seeds
a pinch of asafoetida
½ tsp coriander powder
½ tsp turmeric powder
½ tsp red chili powder
2 cups of water
salt to taste
Method

Soak the chana and the dals in water overnight. The next morning drain, rinse and set aside. In a blender, process the garlic, ginger and green chilies to a fine paste. Add the soaked, drained dals and process again to a textured paste.

To the ground dal, add all the dry masalas (coriander, red chili, turmeric) and salt to taste. Mix well.

Place an iron kadai on a moderate flame and pour in one teaspoon of oil. When the oil is hot, splutter first the cumin, then the ajwain and then the asafoetida. When the asafoetida emits its savory fragrance, add two cups water and bring to boil.

To the boiling water add the mixture of ground dals. Cover with a lid and cook for about 10-20 minutes on a moderate flame, stirring all the time.

As the dals cook, keep crushing and grinding the mix with a ladle to avoid lumps. Continue doing this till the pulses do not stick to the ladle anymore.

Now apply some oil on a thali and pour the cooked pulses mix on it. Spread uniformly, and allow to cool. On cooling and solidifying, cut into diamond shaped cakes called badil.

Fry these badils in the remaining oil on a steel tava and serve hot with chutney.

Tip: For best results, cook the dals on an iron kadai.

UDAD KI PAKORI

MAKES 8-12 COOKING TIME: 45 MINUTES-1 HOUR

This dish is made to mark any fortuitous day by both Garhwalis as well as Kumaonis.

Ingredients

1 cup split urad with skin on
1 inch piece ginger chopped coarse
1 green chili
2-3 pieces clove
½ tsp cumin powder
¼ tsp asafoetida powder
salt to taste
1 bowl water
oil for frying

For the garnish tbsp sesame and cumin

Method

Soak the dal overnight. Wash well the following morning. Rub to remove the skins and wash thoroughly.

In a blender, place dal with all the other ingredients and process to a grainy paste using the minimum amount of water required.

Remove to a bowl and using a fork beat the paste well to incorporate air into the mixture. To test whether the batter is light enough you can drop a little into water. If it is light enough it floats.

Shape the pakodis by putting a spoonful of the batter on a greased palm or piece of plastic. Shape into a flat disc with a hole in the center. Slide carefully into hot oil to fry. Alternatively you can just drop spoonfuls of batter into hot oil.

When the pakodis are done remove, drain on absorbent paper and serve with Til Chutney.

KAFULI

SERVES 4 COOKING TIME: 45 MINUTES

Kafuli is a thick green curry (for want of a better word) made from green leafy vegetables, served as an accompaniment to steamed rice or rotis. In Pahari cooking it is made with pahadi palak or mustard greens. However a lot of Paharis have moved away from their home ground to areas where Pahadi palak and Rai are not so easily available. They have adapted the recipe to normal spinach.

Ingredients

2 bunches spinach /mustard greens
½ bunch fenugreek leaves (optional)
4-5 green chilies
2 tbsp oil (preferably mustard oil)
4-5 cloves garlic
3-cm piece of ginger
1 tsp cumin seeds
a pinch of asafoetida
½ tsp coriander powder
¼ tsp turmeric powder
1 tbsp rice powder or rice paste
2 tbsp yogurt (optional)
1-2 cups water
salt to taste

Method

Wash spinach and fenugreek under running water.

Chop and boil both vegetables along with the green chilies in a little water till tender. (A pressure cooker or microwave can be used here).

When cooked smash it against the walls of the utensil it has been cooked in. The result should be a coarse puree. (Do not use a blender as that will result in a smooth puree and the dish will lose its texture).

Finely pound ginger and garlic. Heat the oil in a frying pan. Add garlic and ginger. When the garlic and ginger are browned, add the cumin seeds and asafetida. Add spinach and fenugreek puree, turmeric powder, coriander powder and salt.

Add required amount of water to kafuli and bring to boil. Now add rice paste or rice powder dissolved in water to thicken.

Cover and cook for 8-10 minutes on a slow fire till the gravy is thick. If dry, add some water and boil.

Garnish with pure ghee and serve hot with roti or steamed rice.

To add sourness, we usually add a tomato or two into greens in the first step in which case we omit the curd.

TIL/BHANG KI CHUTNEY

YIELD 1-1.5 CUPS COOKING TIME: 30-45 MINUTES

This chutney is mainly prepared during winters and is great with toor dal and steamed rice or with Gahat Ke Paranthe. It can also be used as a dip for various snacks. If you do not have access to hemp or bhang seeds, substitute the same with sesame. Bhang chutney is made in Kumaon and Til chutney is more common in Garhwal. It can be made ahead and stored in the refrigerator.

Ingredients

200 gm hemp seeds or sesame seeds a handful of coriander leaves
2-3 garlic cloves (optional)
1-inch piece of ginger
2-3 green chilies
juice of 1 bada nimbu or big lemon or ¾ cup juice of small lemons
½ tsp sugar (optional)
a handful of mint leaves
1 tsp roasted cumin (optional)
salt to taste

Method
Dry roast hemp or sesame seeds in a pan on a moderate flame for 4-5 minutes. Take care not to overdo it. Once done place in a grinder with coriander leaves, garlic cloves and green chilies.

Add lemon juice and grind to a fine paste. Adjust salt and sugar.

A variation of this recipe is the Mooli and Til Chutney. Cut a couple of moolis into finger-length sticks and leave them under a fan to dry for a couple of hours.

Then add them to the chutney with chillies cut in half-lengthwise.

This chutney is usually made with “bade nimbu” large lemons that people normally have growing in their kitchen garden. They are quite huge, so one is generally enough, but can be substituted by the other normal ones.

JHANGORA KI KHEER

A sweet preparation, usually served as a dessert.

Ingredients

500 gm jhangora (barnyard millet)
200 gm sugar
2 lt milk
50 gm cashew nuts
50 gm raisins
100 gm chironji
kewra essence to taste

Method

Bring milk to a boil in a thick bottom pan. Once the milk begins to boil, add Jhangora and cook well, stirring to avoid lumps.

Add sugar and cook until the sugar is fully dissolved. When done, take off the flame.

Add kewra essence and stir in well. Garnish with chopped dry fruits. Serve hot or cold.

SINGHAL

This is a dish high in calories that is a specialty prepared during festivals. It is local sweet snack.

Ingredients

2 cups semolina
1 cup yogurt, well churned
250 gm ghee
50 gm sugar, ground to a fine powder
1 banana, smashed to a pulp

Method
In a large bowl, mix the semolina with 50 gm of ghee and the banana pulp to a uniform consistency. Set aside.

In another bowl mix the yogurt and sugar powder. Now soak the semolina mix in curd mix for about 10-20 minutes, depending upon the ambient temperature.

Place a kadai on a moderate flame. Pour in the remaining ghee.

When the ghee gets moderately hot drop thick jalebis of the semolina paste in. cook for about 5- 0 minutes, turning repeatedly till reddish brown.

When both sides are evenly cooked remove the singhals.

Serve hot garnished with cardamom powder.

BY RUSHINA MUNSHAW-GHILDIYAL