Dakshin at the ITC Maratha, Mumbai adds an extensive Seafood selection to its Menu

A Traditional Urli at the door.

Golu Dolls

I finally got around to visiting Dakshin restaurant at the ITC Grand Maratha. Considering that Dakshin is in my neighbourhood, it is ironic that I have not been able to go dine there so far! But with the amount of things I have to juggle, often the choice of restaurants is decided by stories to file or places that allow children. That said I have been wanting to dine at Dakshin for a long, long time! And with Nariyal Purnima last week, (the festival after which the Koli fishermen begin fishing again) I though it appropriate that A Perfect bite get some Seafood. So I accepted the hotel's long standing invitation to come in for a tasting session of the extensive Seafood menu from the Karavali coast that they have added to their repertoire.

In keeping with the ITC tradition, Dakshin which showcases South Indian cuisine from the four states of Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh. This restaurant is inspired by the temples of southern India and the ambience is reflective of the influence, with temple door elements all over, ceiling lights in the shape of temple bells. Traditional woodcarving adorning the walls embelished with south Indian artifacts. And I was delighted by the traditional brass lamp (Velaku) and the Urli (traditional bell metal vessel) graced with a luxurious layer of Marigolds floating on its surface (the presence of a water body in temples is a must in south India) that greeted me on arrival at the restaurant. Little figurines representative of the dolls that are used to celebrate the Golu (doll) festival in SOuth India welcoming guests in. We arrived at a table set with gleaming silver thalis lined with banana leaves and rimmed with silver kattories waiting to be filled. Brass Cruet sets holding Podis (spice powders) suggested the subtle oppulence of a bygone era.

Food is served from traditional ‘Urlis’ and the ‘Addukus’ by traditionally dressed friendly and extremely knowledgeble restaurant staff. The menu is a result of years of research and trials by the team of chefs and culinary experts that are behind the restaurant. This team travels the region and sources information and ingredients from noted and celebrated cooks. With each item on the menu is cooked in its own distinct spices and style. It is laudable that the ITC has undertaken to invest in the propogation and preservation of culinary traditions such as this in their restaurants. Just like it is in the power of large hotel chains to create new cuisines, it is also in their power to celebrate Indian regional cuisines. As a food lover I loved the restaurant and its food.

But as a proponent of the preservation of traditional Indian food culture, I was especially honored to meet the charming Chef Manu Nair who stood by my table, giving me his special attention and sharing the stories and annecdotes behind the discovery for each dish; outlining. For me food is about the stories behind it and Chef Manu is an adept story teller, weaving special nuances into every dish he served with obvious pride, of the spices used, the origins of the dish and his personal discoveries and creations. He makes an apt ambassador for the cuisine and has an eternal foodie fan in me (He is the first Chef I have photographed for a blogpost). You see, South Indian cuisine goes much, much further than just idlis and dosas, typically associated with South Indian cuisine all over India. These in actuality are just a selection of dishes that are traditionally consumed for breakfast in the Udipi region of South India. From subtly spiced vegetarian offerings to beautifully flavoured meat and fish dishes, South Indian cuisine offers a phenomenal range of dishes, flavours and textures seldom sampled outside the home.

I know I am inviting trouble, with my next statement but I do not personally like the Marathas other Indian restaurants, the Peshawari and the Dum Pukht. I find the food too heavy. However, I loved Dakshin for lightness of the food and the attention to detail to everything from the decor to the food.My only grouse was that I did not fancy the desserts. I was looking forward to a Payasam or similarly tempting offering.

Without further ado, I will take you through each bite of my meal in the subsequent images but I would like to say that a meal at Dakshin is an education in the vastness of South Indian Cuisines and a must do on the menu of anyone who loves food or Indian culture.I have every intention of going back because there is SO much I still want to try. (Including the Harissa and the Pandi Curry they do on request!)  

Spice box on display

Nataraja with a traditional rangoli of flowers.

Chef Manu Nair - charming ambassador of South Indian Cuisine

My thali - within its rim lie the vastness of Indian cuisine.

A selection of papads to start us off.

Traditional buttermilk soaked sun dried chillies to nibble on.

Flowers for the ladies - a traditional gajra - string of jasmine flowers that South Indian women adorn their hair with.

We start with a selection of chutneys.

Chutneys - clockwise from left - Bottle gourd, Curry leaf, Coconut and I forget the last. 

All lined up in a row!

And then came the best Rassam I have EVER tasted. Yep even better than the one my favourite South Indian friend who is a fabulous cook makes! I kept sipping this through the meal, it made a very good palate cleanser between dishes.

Bharleli Bombil :- A speciality of the Belgaum region of Karnataka. The dish has influence of Malvani cuisine because Belgaum was earlier part of Maharashtra. Bombil are split open, deboned, stuffed with a shrimp mixture, closed and crumb fried in semolia.

The filling was delicious! Offering textural contrast to the soft crispy crumbed Bombil flsh.

Lobster Melagu Perrattal:- A dry fresh Lobster dish in which succulent cunks of Lobster came tossed in a fiery pepper masala. A speciality dish from the Syrian Christians of Cochin.

Kara Sighadi:- Prawns tossed in a blend of ethnic Masala, a specialty of Dharwad’s Shivaji community.

Meen Porichattu:- Boneless fillet of white Pomfret, marinated in a spicy tangy red Masala and shallow fried to perfection. A specialty during the annual church festivals of Kerala and my favourite of the day. So tender and flavour.

I love how they cut that lemon for the garnish!

Patchakari Stew A Syrian Christian speciality.in which vegetables are gently simmered in creamy coconut milk. Perct with accompanying Appams.

Meen Gassi:-A typical Mangalorean dish made with Bedgi chilies and coconut. A fisherman speciality. Normally cooked by fisherman’s on their Boats. They carry the masala with them and cook fresh catch in it.

Appams!

Mokkacholam Keerai Kasiyal:-Tender corn kernels and fresh greens cooked with spices and lentils.

Appam up close!

Deliciously crisp edges and a spongy centre!

Nandu Puttu:- Crab meat tossed with onions, ginger, garlic and grated coconut tempered with fennel and mustard. A speciality from the Malabar coasts of Kerala.

Cheemen Manga Charu:-Prawns delicately cooked with raw mango in shallot and fresh coconut milk gravy, tempered with mustard and cumin. A speciality from Local fishermen of Kerala. My other favourite of the meal!

Urlai Roast.:-Roasted baby potatoes spicy finished with garlic, cumin and aniseed. An Iyengar specialty.

Pomfret Koshambri:- Delicate cubes of Pomfret fish cooked in a spicy coriander and chilly Masala. A dish influenced by the Konkani settlements in Karnataka.

All served up !

The meal was rounded off with Rice eaten 4 ways.

a spoonfull of rice was placed before me and Chef asked me to divide it into 4 portions.

And the cruet set was brought forward.

The Cruet set is a signature offering at Dakshin, containing a selection of podis or spice powders and pure ghee.

Each section of rice was topped with a podi - this is the Curry leaf one, and my favourite.

The garlic one

Some ghee on top of each mound.

A beutiful sight and delicious ritual!

The last moung should have had papad but I got lost in the Curry leaf Podi!

And then came Curd Rice - one of my favourite dishes!

With spicy Avakkai pikle...

Kadal pacchee:- A delicate pudding made from milk and Pistachio nuts, flavoured with rose water and seaweed. A moplah specialty. (yes I forgot to take a picture before digging in!)

Vattal Appam:- Steamed coconut custard sweetened with Jaggery and cardamom. A dish that originated in Sri Lanka which became famous in Tamil Nadu.

Red Zen review and the Thai Bhel it inspired

 

Please be informed I was bribed with copious amounts of Red Zen’s version of Prik Nam Pla redolent with coriander root, garlic and fish sauce to write this review! I still have some in my fridge!

My first visit to Red Zen was because it was close to where I live and because I their PR representative was a long time friend. I went in to check out the Zen Power Lunch at her invitation. That said I went in with reservations. You see I consider South East Asian food a forte as far as my personal cooking skills are concerned and consequently set very high standards for oriental food at restaurants. We were met and soon settled down to our meal.

A basket of prawn crackers accompanied by a selection of – House made ‘Yum’, Tamarind and hot garlic sauces and the signature Red Zen version of Nam Prik Pla were set before us to tide us through the hungry wait for our food. This is where most other oriental restaurants would serve you bad tomato sauce doused ‘Kimchi’ so I happily dipped through them. And then I tasted the Prik Nam Pla. Once I tasted it, the others became invisible! Prik Nam Pla is a traditional condiment of thinly chopped Thai bird (prik) chillies in fish sauce that is present at every Thai table to spice up rice-based dishes such as fried rice or white rice with sides.

At Red Zen, Chef Praiwan the resident Thai Chef does a more elaborate combination using coriander root, garlic and sugar in which the hot, salty, sweet balance is achieved perfectly. Of course it is very hot, a fact my mouth discovered after the sheer satisfaction and endorphin high of the chilli wore off and burning of the tongue ensued! Thankfully a lovely gingery drink (whose name I have lamentably forgotten) came just in time to assuage the flames. The savoury Egg Drop soup that arrived soon after also hit the spot, hot, salty and comforting as only a well made stock based soup can be. My bento style set lunch was set before me. Egg fried rice accompanied by black pepper chicken, sweet chilli fish and stir fried vegetables. All perfectly executed and served.

Truth be told I was sold on the Prik Nam Pla and prawn  crackers itself. My only complaint was that dessert was a disappointment! After the well made and matched food, serving three tiny scoops of commercially made ice-cream was a letdown. Of course, in true Rushina fashion I expresses my views and let them know. What I did not expect was that they would bring out some of their more innovative desserts in response! Soon, a bowl of an oriental Coconut milk dessert and decadant chocolate Springrolls (with a piquant pineapple salsa to cut through the chocolatyness and chocolate sauce in case you wanted to pile it on!) sat before me.  

I came away pleased enough to organise a bloggers meet there down the line. But just to be sure that I was not over reacting to the food, I recently went back for a taste of their Thai Street food festival. Again the food was very satisfying. Chef Praiwan their adorable Thai chef got our palates excited with a chicken and coconut milk soup which he quickly followed up with a steaming hot dish of fiery Basil Chicken stirfry with rice and a fried egg on top. Thankfully our sizzling mouths were cooled down with the chilled Thai dessert followed sweet coconut milk with water chestnuts and Jackfruit!  And just to be sure, I also sent my husband in to try it out anonymously (he is very much a food lover himself) and his verdict “I liked the food, particularly the Thai curry although the service was a little slow.” It takes a lot for him to like a Thai Curry so now I have to go back to see what its like!

But here is my verdict? If you are looking for flourishes of gourmet extravagance, go somewhere else. At Red Zen you will find well presented, tasty, Oriental food done well,with flashes of pure brilliance. They might have chosen to take a well trodden path in serving Oriental cuisine but they do it well. Every element is given attention. From the decor and tableware to interesting drinks and well made food. And it is this attention to detail that shines through. If you have not been to this lovely restaurant at the slightly more than 1 year old Courtyard by Marriott (not to be confused with the JW Marriott) I highly recommend you go.  Soon. Because their Thai street food festival will be over before you know it!

And now for the Thai Bhel

I have a secret. I have a collection of Template recipes. Template Recipe is a term I coined for recipes that I can do various avatars of. You see one of my favourite things to do is cook meals around a theme – Chinese, Italian, Thai, Mediteranean to name some successfully executed dinners. And over time I have evolved template recipes, that I tweak for use depending on the cuisine I am serving. For example I always have potatoes on my menu. Usually these are baby potatoes, parboiled in their skins, pierced all over and stir fried slowly in a little oil. I will finish them with a herb or spice combination to match the meal – parsley and lemon for a Mediterranean meal, chillies, garlic and schezwan sauce for a Chinese meal or thai chillies, basil, palm sugar and fish sauce for a thai meal.

This summer I rediscovered Chivda in Dehra Dun and as made it, I remember thinking of the many ways I could innovate with it. With its base of puffed rice it would go so well with so many cuisines.... Toasted Sesame oil, Toasted Sesame, Chillies, garlic and a flower of Star Anise for a Chinese version, perhaps? Or Basil, pine nuts and sundried tomato for an Italian theme with a dusting of parmiggiano just before I served it? And how delicious would a Thai version be with basil, lemongrass, thai chillies, garlic and shallots, peanuts and dried shrimp? The possibilities were endless....  

So after I cam home with some of the Prik nam PlaI I was inspired to make a Thai version of Chivda, that I tossed with it into a piquant spicy bhel. Try it out, and see how you go!

For the Thai Chivda

250g beaten rice, puffed rice or a combination of both (you can even use other puffed grains such as corn, millets)

1 cup of raw peanuts, skinned

½ cup toasted sesame

1 cup of dried papaya (this is optional, I had some to hand) or raisins or both

1 cup of coconut flakes (optional)

5-6 finely chopped thai chilies (adjust according to your preference of heat)

4-5 sprigs Makrut / kafir line leaves

1-2 tbsp Toasted Sesame oil

½ tsp sugar

Salt to taste

Heat a large wok (here in India we use a Kadai which is shaped like a wok but much heavier) that can hold all of the ingredients on a medium flame. Add the oil and allow to heat up. Add the chilies and Makrut / kafir line leaves and saute until the chillies and leaves are crisp. Be careful, this stage is crucial, if the spices scorch you will have to start over. Once done fish out the Kafir lime leaves and reserve. Add the chickpeas and the raisins and fry lightly for about a minute. Add in the nuts and combine well. Lower flame and add the ground turmeric, chillies, sugar and salt, and give everything a quick stir. Quickly add the beaten/puffed rice – you do not want the spice powders burning. Sprinkle salt and sugar and mix well until all the ingredients are combined well. Leave heat all the way down to low and let the mixture heat through, for about 5 minutes, stirring all the time so nothing overcooks. Take off heat and allow to cool completely before transferring to air tight container to store.

Red Zen Sinature Prik Nam Pla

This is also great with khichdi and papad! NO I am not kidding, I SWEAR!

100 ml Light soya sauce
100 ml Fish sauce
100 g Lime juice
100 g Coriander with roots
100 g Fresh thai red chillies
30 g Garlic (little)

100 g Sugar (little) -
Pound the chillies, garlic and coriander and combine with all the other ingredient. Mix well and store in an airtight bottle in your refrigerator.

For Thai Bhel

1.5 cups Thai Bhel mix

2-3 tbsp Red Zen Sinature Prik Nam Pla

2-3 tbsp tamarind chutney

½ cup onion chopped fine

½ cup tomato chopped fine

½ cup green papaya, grated

1/3 c green mango grated

1 cup boiled potato diced fine

1/3 cup coriander chopped fine

2-3 handfulls of sprouts

Combine everything except the Thai bhel mix in a bwl and toss well. Add the bhel toss again and serve immediately.

GYAN and information.

Red Zen is Located on Level M at the Courtyard by Marriott Hotel. Zen Power lunch available between  12.30– 3.00pm priced at Rs. 399 + taxes.

The Prawn crackers and THE sauce!

The Drink!

Egg drop soup!

Our lunches arrive giving new meaning to the term 'boxed lunch'

And viola!

Sweet Chilli fish

Egg Fried Rice

Stir fried vegetables

Black pepper Chicken and yum sauce

The chocolate springroles with Chocolate sauce and pineapple salsa

DROOLWORTHY stuff this!